ALGHERO, SARDINIA (Italy)
5/13 On our boat!!!! We are so happy. After
30 hours of flying and sitting in airports we finally got on the boat at 7:00 p.m. and were in bed by 7:15. I woke up
at 10:00 the next morning. What an exhausting trip. It is so nice to be back in Italy. It is cool at night
and so beautiful in the daytime.
5/14 We are so happy - the engines started right up. What
a relief. Glenn has his little mechanical chores to do (engine checks, dive the propellers, put the genoa back up, check
the windlass, rebuild the one winch and clean the hull) and I have my cleaning (two heads, vacuum, dust every inch,
rearrange everything so we have two empty cabins, unpack and wash some clothes that didn't smell that fresh) and stocking.
Nothing major wrong with the boat. The bimini had blown in a storm and the marina owner had tied it down for us.
Glenn straightened one of the support beams and reconnected it and all seems well. We have made several trips to the
grocery store and one to refill our butane tank and purchase a second. That was a load to carry. We each carried
one in our backpack.
Life on a boat - "NOTHING IS SIMPLE"
I started my morning routine of washing
dishes but when I went to put the frying pan away I noticed Glenn's wetsuit still hanging on the handle partially
blocking the cabinet door. So I stopped the dish washing and put the wetsuits in the foward cabin closet having to duck
through yestersay's laundry hanging along the passageway. They were dry so I decided to fold them and put them away.
Back to the dishes, I started to put the glasses away when I saw a mold spot on the shelf liner. So, I pulled the glasses
out, cleaned the shelf, cut a new piece of liner and put it in. I finished putting the glasses away - and that's how
you do dishes on a boat.
This makes a convenient segue to doing laundry on a boat. Fill a large bucket with
2 1/2 gals. of water and add a 1/2 capful of detergent for each load. The water is carried upstairs from one of the
passageways in 2 1/2 gal. jugs. Put the laundry in, mix with your foot and wait two hours. Wring the laundry out
and put clean water in the buckets(again lugging jugs up stairs), put the laundry in and really stomp it around with your
foot. Wring laundry, empty water, put in clean water and rinse again. Wring really well now and hang on lifelines around
the boat. Note: the lines are 28" off the deck so all of this is done bent over, as was the picking up of water
jugs and the wringing of the laundry on the lifelines (3 times). Several hours later bend over and take in the dry laundry
and fold it. Then bend over and take in the damp laundry to re-hand in the passageways inside the boat so that it will
be in your way tomorrow morning. Now, try to stand up straight.
5/15 It just dawned on us that we need
to get over to the bank to exchange our money before it closes at 1:00 (yes, closes). We got the same teller we had
six months ago when we took money out of our checking account to pay the marina fee. It took 1/2 hour and 3 tellers
to do it last year.
When we told him what we wanted to do he shook his head "no" and then he proceeded
to punch the keys, one at a time, on his computer. I guess the "no" was more "oh, no". He
started putting information in from Glenn's passport and then had us write our home address and this is where the problem
begins (again). The format in their software is set up for Italian addresses. Type, type, type, backspace, backspace,
backspace. Type, type, type,.......backspace, backspace....... Ask the teller next to him for help. She
comes over makes a few suggestion. More typing and more backspacing. Another teller wanders byy and puts in their
2 cents (costing 2.65 American). More shaking of the head, typing, backspacing. Twenty minutes go by and our teller
leans back in his chair, throws his arms up in the air and shouts "va bene". We all laugh and smile at each
other, a little bit of cheerful congratulations among all of the tellers and fine'. We're done!
5/17
We leave the dock and head for the fuel dock to fill up. The attendant comes back and shows us that our card was denied.
Nothing unusual for us as they get a little excited when we travel. We will call them this afternoon. We head
out to the anchorage and prepare to ENTER THE WATER. We are going to go in and clean the boat's bottom. A full
wetsuit for me and it takes me 10 minutes to get into the water inch by inch it's so cold. There is nothing to see as
there are very few fish in the Med. There is very little growth on the hull so we are done in about 45 minutes.
That wasn't bad at all.
Back on the boat we decide to call our charge card company. Would you believe someone
recreated our card and charged items in Saudi Arabia? Fortunately, they are able to overnight our new cards to Duane's
so that he can bring them with him. Otherwise, I don't know how we would have gotten them. This is the second
time in as many years that we have had to get new account numbers as someone stole our identification. Along with that
comes identifying all of the companies that we have on autopay to our charge card. Oh well, modern life.
5/18
We are on the move. We have run into a boater that we had met last year in Corsica. He is a German named Horst
on "Elke Sun Cat". We had actually anchored by them several times last year and had dinner with them once.
His friend had to go back to Germany for a week so he is going to follow us on our sail to Rome. We first anchor at
Isola Rossa in Sardinia after a 70 mile day and then back to Porte Vechio in Corsica where we first met last year.
5/20
We begin our overnight to mainland Italy. Horst is following right behind, single handling a 24 hour sail. He
is quite amazing. He's 71 and absolutely doesn't look or act like it. He speaks very good English and is a really
nice guy. We are happy for the company.
ITALY
5/21 8:00 we have arrived
at Santa Marinella, a beautiful little port. To bed we go. In the afternoon we take a walk to see if the train
station is nearby. What luck, it is a 15 minute walk and this is just a beautiful little town. Lot's of little
stores, small streets and a beautiful beach. We have decided to use this as our base for Duane, etc. (my new name
for the four of them) to explore Rome. We got a pretty good deal at the marina so we are happy campers.
5/22
Today was spent clearing the two starboard cabins, making the beds up, planning meals and grocery shopping. Glenn and
Horst took a practice 2 train ride to the airport to see how long it would take and where we would be meeting Duane, etc.
We are all ready for our family to join us.
5/23 The day has arrived. Up at 7:00 we're off to the train station.
This is so much nicer than the travelling from Civitivecchia last year. Everything in town is handy. Duane's plane
was actually early so they were there about 1/2 hour before us. All our planning! We ate at the airport than back
to the boat. Everyone is sleepy, the kids are falling asleep everytime they sit down, so we decide to explore the town.
We want to keep them awake so that they can sleep tonight. We walked to the beach and then stop for gellato on
our way back. This is probably the busiest spot in town. Walk a little more then back to the boat. Spaghetti
for dinner (what else?) and everyone is in bed by 8:00.
5/24 To Rome. The kids visit the Colosseum while Glenn
and I walked around the area. Back together we walk along the Palatine and head for the Spanish Steps. Kayleigh
did a Rocky run up to the top. We then visited Trevi Fountain which really impressed everyone and then a quick
stop for gellato and back on the train.
5/25 Duane,etc. go to visit the St Peter's while Glenn and I walk
2 miles to a Vodaphone store to see what is wrong with the latest gadget that he has bought which is supposed to provide us
with internet through the cell phone systems. We finally drag ourselves to the store and it is closed! It opens
at 3:00. Back we walk to St Peter's to meet up with the kids. Actually, the walk was very pretty along
the Tiber River and past the Castel D'Angelo. Another walk, for us, around St. Peter's and we realize all over again
how astounding this place is. St Peter's tomb and the Pieta are our favorites. The colors of the marble everywhere
are just so beautiful. Now what should we do? Oh, I know let's walk back to Vodaphone. This time we found
a bus after walking halfway there. Glenn and I sat in the Vodaphone waiting our turn #74, while Duane, etc explored
the shops. Kayleigh lucked out with a really cute dress and shorts. I went back with them after Vodaphone and
got kayleigh some cute pajamas for her birthday. And our Vodaphone problem was fixed. We are now internet capable
from the boat. 5 hours a day for 25 euros a month. You can't really beat it. We then went to the Time Elevator
so the kids could watch a movie to get the history of Rome. There was also a 3D dinosaur movie. Unfortunately,
no air conditioning (that is what the adults were really hoping for). From here we walked to Trevi Fountain again for
another gellato. Back to the train.
5/26 A day of rest. We hung around the boat, did more grocery
shopping and visited the train station to plan tomorrow's trip to Florence and Pisa for Duane,etc.
5/27 Duane,
etc. were up at 5:30 again to the train station and off to Florence. They got home at 11:00 at night. Youth.
They even did their public duty and helped to hold up the tower at Pisa for a while. I have to say here that the train
system in Italy is spectacular. The trains are always on time, I mean within minutes every single trip we took on them.
5/28
Happy Birthday Kayleigh. She decided the thing she wanted to do for her birthday was go sailing. Grandpa's girl.
We had 17 knots of wind and managed to sail at 7 knots. It was a beautiful day for sailing and the coast is pretty along
here. I was hoping that some porpoise would join us but no such luck. Back to the dock, showers and off to dinner.
We found a small little restaurant on a side street and what a lucky find it was. Te spaghetti seafood dishes were piled
high with mussels, calamari, prawn and clams with a red sauce. I had risotto primavera and surprise it had calamari.
I finally broke down and tried it and it was good. Everyone said it was the best clamari they ever had so I guess I
picked a good time to try it. Glenn and I took the kids back to the boat while Duane and Roberta went to get gellato
for the birthday party. Surprise, they returned with the prettiest cake. Earlier in the day they had gone into
one of the small stores in town as the bakery was closed and they baked a special cake for Kayleigh. It was white angel
food with Nutella and whipped cream frosting. It was a great 11th birthday.
5/29 Duane, etc are off
for a short day to Pompeii - they got back at 10:00 p.m. this time. Glenn and I decided to travel to Tivoli, a pretty
little town 30 miles east of Rome. We left the boat at 7:30, train to Rome, metro to Tiburtina, train to Tivoli, bus
to Villa Adrianna, quite a walk to the actual estate. We arrived at 1:30 with our tails dragging. BUT it was worth
it. This summer estate for Emperor Hadrian was completed in 134 AD. There are still walls, columns and statues
standing. The landscaping is beautiful and the place is not crowded at all. We walked over a 3 square mile area
and then at 3:30 we figured we better start heading back. the return trip only took 4 hours as we knew where we were
going and we were lucky enough to hit the timing just right on everything. We made it back to the boat at 7:30 and I
had my leftover risotto primavera. Yum.
5/30 Duane,etc. enjoyed Pompeii and agreed with us that Naples is
a dirty city. It's funny our different cities have a personality of their own. I guess everyone is worn out as
instead of heading back to Rome today we hung around on the boat and farkled. (Hint: See Atlantic trip ). They
left around 3:30 for their hotel in Rome and Glenn and I went ----- grocery shopping! We really enjoyed their company
and I think things went great for 6 people on a boat. We're going to miss them.
5/31 This is laundry
and cleanup day. Horst has to have his boat hauled on Monday and Glenn is going with him to make sure that the repair
is done correctly.
6/1 It's Monday and it is raining, raining, raining. The boys took the boat 3 miles
up the coast to Civitivecchia and they refused to haul the boat in the rain. Even if they hauled it the mechanic wouldn't
work in the rain. Boy, they wouldn't survive in Florida. So the marina director called 4 taxi cab companies, 2
in Civitivecchia and 2 in Santa Marinello. No answer. So Glenn walked out to the bus stop and got on the first
bus that came. He dropped him off fairly close to the marina. Glenn didn't even have a bus ticket.
6/2
Today is very windy with some rain. It is a holiday so Horst is still waiting to have his boat hauled.
6/3
No taxis at the train station, no buses, so Glenn started to walk towards Civitivecchia at 7:00 a.m. figuring he'd catch a
bus along the way. It was a nice walk. Finally, the boat is fixed, they sail back to Santa Marinella and we are
on the move. We left at 12:30 and sneaked into Anzio right before dark. Nothing special about this city as it
was horribly bombed in WWII and has been rebuilt.
6/4 A 35 mile trip to Isola Ponza. What a pretty place.
There is a small beach on one side of the harbor and cliffs just rising straight up around the rest of it. We decide
to walk to the small town for bread with Horst. We were pointed in the right direction and told we would have to go
up about 150 stairs but we would be very happy when we got to the top. Well 288 stairs later, they were right, I was
very happy to be at the top. Actually, it was a very pretty climb and the little town is quite pretty. I had wanted
to sail here with Duane, etc. but there just wasn't enough time. Everything here is uphill and it is quite old little
town Italy. We got some wonderful bread and an apricot tart at the bakery and some vegetables at the little store.
Everything is just so quaint here.
6/5 Isola d'Ischia. Horst particularly wanted to come to this island
as it is quite popular with Germans and the specialty is spas and hot springs for the ill. He and is wife almost moved
here to work 30 years ago but his mother got ill and they couldn't. So he wanted to explore the island. We walked
around for 5 hours down these beautiful cobbled streets with flowers everywhere and lots of little shops. We were going
to go to the castle at the point but when we got to the end of the street and saw how far up the hill we had to go to get
to the castle we turned around. Horst treated us to a nice lunch by the water. It was nice to sit and be waited
on for once. It was just a lovely day all around. Horst is staying tomorrow to rent a Vespa and explore the rest
of the island. Did I mention that he is 71? He's in better shape than we are.
6/6 We have passed the
Isle of Capri and then traveled along the Amalfi coast. What a beautiful sight. These huge cliffs come straight
down to the water with the occasional house clinging to the side or perched on the top. There are a few towns along
the way tucked into the occasional cove. We anchored in the city of Amalfi and then waited to see if we would be asked
to move. The harbor was jammed with boats tightly moored together on one side and ferries and large ships coming in
and going out loading and offloading passengers on the other side. The ships came headed straight for us then dropped
their anchor practically on top of us and backed into the wharf. Well after a few of those, sure enough the Italian
navy came over and asked us to move. So we left the port and tucked into a little point of land down the coast a bit.
We
went into town the next day. What a treat. It just goes up, up, up the mountain with stairs switching back and
forth. We walked up to about the third level at one end of town and then went up some stairs to hopefully, get to the
fourth level but it came to a dead end. And old Italian lady came to her gate and said hello. Well, the stairs
are made of stone, irregular in height and way taller than your average steps. I don't know how this woman could ever
get into town and back. We walked over to the other side of town also just up and down everywhere. I am writing
this two days later and the tops of my thighs are killing me. All of the walking we have done on these trips and this
is the first time I ever felt sore after. If we lived here I would be in great shape.
We stopped for a beer
at Giuseppe's Pizzeria in a little back alley. A man, I presume to be Giuseppe, was sitting in a chair outside greeting
everyone. We were sitting at a table outside. Someone started drilling something upstairs in an apartment along
the narrow alley beside us. Some dust came drifting down. Well, Giuseppe didn't like that. A big discussion
with 3 of the waiters who were trying to calm him down, he walks off to the building and then comes back, a person from the
building comes down, some other passerby joins the group and we now have 6 Italians in a lively discussion (is there any other
kind in Italy?). End result no more drilling. It definitely made me feel as if I was really in Italy. We
went back to the boat to rest and cool off and then back to town around 5:00 for groceries. There was a supermaket marked
on our map but we walked up that street and just couldn't find it. So in my wonderful Italian "Prego (this
is supposed to be thank you but they seem to use it as if you please) dove il supermercado?" to a nice Italian woman.
She used hand motions and explained in Italian where it was. It appears that we had passed it. So back down this
same street (our 4th walk on it for the day) and we kept looking to the left for a little opening into another back street.
We asked two more people as we went still being pointed down the street and to the left. Finally, we came upon this
little opening between some shops and up the narrow street you could just see some of the sign. What a well hidden grocery
store. We were headed back to the boat when I decided to reward Glenn's whining and allow him to eat dinner out.
We really wanted to go back to Giuseppe's. We had a delicious pizza and more beer. Who walks by but the woman
who had directed us to the grocery store. She said "Ciao" and (in Italian) asked us if we had found the store.
My Italian reply,"Si, grazie" as I pointed to our handy dandy Publix, environmentally approved, shopping bags.
Oh, we just so belong. We're almost Italians. I haven't mentioned earlier, due to our lack of restaurant experience,
but there is a seating charge at all of the restaurants. It ranges from 1.50 to 3.00 euros per head. In Portugal,
they casually charged you for the bread they put on the table that you didn't ask for. Here it is right out there.
We had a wonderful day altogether in Amalfi.
6/9-6/11 We are just making our way down the coast with stops
in little harbors. Horst is having a problem with his main sail roller furler getting stuck. So Glenn is up and
down the mast, back and forth with tools trying to fix it. His sail is stuck about 1/3 out. Today we head for
Stromboli, an island with an active volcano. Can't wait. It's been 13 days since I have been on this website.
Did I scare you? Did you think we fell in the volcano? Basically our internet month ran up and we couldn't find
a Vodaphone to renew our account. Everything on line was in Italian (surprise) and we couldn't figure out how to do
it. We finally got another month today (6/22). So, on with our story. Glenn finally fixed the sail and we
are off at noon.
SICILY
We could see the steam coming from the volcano about
35 miles from the island. We finally pulled up to the beach around 8:00 and began to anchor. The water is deep
right up the to beach, typical with a volcano. There were a lot of boats anchored along the sandy portion of the shore
so we finally decided we had to take a line to shore. Glenn has always wanted to try this. Here's our opportunity.
It took a while to get the boat turned round with its stern to the beach with the wind wanting to turn it the other way.
Glenn finally got the line tied on a rock on shore and we seemed to have settled into a good position when Horst came in to
anchor. So, Glenn dinghied over and explained the situation to Horst and then after several tries with the main anchor
finally got into position to pull his line ashore. At this point the boats were just lined up beside each other with
barely enough room in between for another boat. 9:15 and Horst is anchored! What a long day. As we came
up to the island we had made plans to go around the other side of the island around 10:00 p.m. so we could see the glow of
the flames. Well, by the time we finally got both boats settled in we weren't moving. Since, the kitchen was long
closed I had a bowl of cereal and Glenn had a peanut butter and jelly sandwhich. To bed.
6/12 We all
went ashore to hike the volcano. There weren't any signs but since there appeared to be a one main road around the island
we started walking on it. It was hot but very pretty. We just walked along the shoreline between the white walls
separating the houses and finally arrived at a restaurant at the highest point that you go could without a guide. So,
beer and macaroni with eggplant, cheese and sundried tomatoes at 11:30 in the morning and we sat and watched the volcano do
its thing. It occasionally made a loud rumble which added to the excitement. We walked back to the boat through
the center of town (with a stop for gelato of course) and since it was between 12:00 and 4:00 all of the stores were closed.
We went back to the boat, took a nap and then at 4:00 back to the streets for a little grocery shopping.
6/13 Up
bright and early to head to Vulcano Island. We happen to be in the area of Pompeii so it seems everything in this area
belongs to a chain of volcanoes. Well as we went out to get ready to leave we discovered a fine layer of black dirt
over everything. I mean everything, inside and out. Glenn rinsed the boat on the outside three times and I wiped
down every surface and vacuumed inside. We were to continue the attempt to get rid of this stuff for several more days
to come. As a matter of fact, today, the 22nd I found some more in our dinghy. Every time you pick something up
there it is in its hiding spot. We arrived at Isola Vulcano in the early afternoon so Glenn and I headed ourselves off
to the mud baths. My first bath in 6 weeks and not quite what I would have had in mind (bubble bath actually comes to
mind). The mud baths are from sulphur springs and we all know what sulphur smells like. Our guide book warned
us to wear old bathing suits and I'm glad I listened as the smell stayed in the suite faintly and on my skin after two showers
a two days later. It was a great experience though. It was nice and warm, fun to watch the people around coating
themselves with it and letting it dry on and then we met an 80 year old Italian man who told us about his many trips to these
baths and some of the places he had been. It was very relaxing and pleasant. Horst passed on the mud bath today.
He plans on going in when we can't laugh at him tomorrow while we hike up the volcano, which he thinks we're crazy to do.
6/14
Up bright and early while it's still cool and across the island to the base of the volcano. It is a switchback trail
going up 1,000 feet. Added to the difficulty of going up hill is the warmth coming up from the ground and all around
you (we are on an active volcano) and then we are also walking in the consistency of beach sand which makes the walking even
more strenuous. After an hour of go and rest, rest, rest I actually felt I couldn't go any further. So I sat and
Glenn went up to see how much further and how bad the walk was. Well he was back within 15 minutes and said it wasn't
much further and only one bad section of climbing rocks ahead. I was rested by now and all gung ho. So up we went
and I am glad that I did. It was great. Of course, our photos don't do justice. Do they ever? Nothing
can compete with the human eye. I actually wonder if our brain enhances the view because photos are never close to the
beauty we see. There was a helicopter pad at the top for the rich cheaters. Naturally, the trip down was much
easier. We stopped for gelatos on the way back and then on to the boat for the hot part of the day and a rest.
6/15
Back to our journey south. We crossed back over to Scilla, Italy to put ourselves in a good position to go through the
Messina Straits in the morning. We have heard some horror stories about going through these straits with a high wind
and a reversing current so we plan on starting early while the wind is still down.
6/16 Anchor up at 7:20 and we
are off. The wind was mild but the current was behind us and got us going at 8.9 Kts. As the wind came up a bit
behind us the current calmed as the strait widened and we just had a great trip to Taormina, Sicily. We got there in
the early afternoon and headed for shore. The "shortcut" up the hill as a doozy. I still haven't gotten
over my Florida flat land lungs. Everything in Italy is on a slant. This was a major slant. At the top we
stopped to visit a beautiful garden created by an English woman in 1806. There were some buildings there that reminded
me of Robinson Crusoe island at Disneyland. From the gardens we went uphill (of course) to the main road of the town
and walked along looking at the beautiful shops and going inside two different churches. This is the town for the rich
tourists. It was just as interesting to look at all of the people on the street. We were lucky enough to see a
wedding party walk from the church to the restaurant. It was late afternoon and they were so dressed up, much more than
a day time wedding in the US. It was exciting. We stopped for dinner where I had pasta faggioli. I have
been looking for it since arriving in Italy as I really like it at home. Well, sorry to say, it didn't impress me.
Glenn had pizza and that has not failed to be good once we got out of Naples. Naples, the birthplace of pizza, didn't
impress us.
6/17 Horst left us today as he is headed south to his mooring in south Sicily from which he plans
to take trips throughout the summer. Inga is due to fly back Sunday, the 21st. She had barely rejoined Horst in
Rome after going home to Germany from Alghero to go to the doctor when she fell in the airport. Two days later she was
on her way back to Germany. She cracked her tailbone and has been in bed ever since. Horst has been really missing
her but he has been great company for us. He is always cheerful, a gentleman and just enjoyable to be with. We
will miss him. Glenn and I head back up that tortuous "shortcut" to town. This time we visited the Teatro
Greco and old Grecian amphitheatre which was a bit disappointing as it has been set up for the summer festival. The
seats and soundstage just ruined the effect. From there we went back to the main street and walked in the other direction.
I bought a cool summer dress which you will probably see show up in Venice.
6/18 -20 We are going along the
bottom of the boot of Italy headed east so that we can go north on the east coast to Brindisi. From there we hope to
take a train to Venice.
6/21 Today we have stopped in the town of Gallipoli which has a medieval section
behind a town wall with an old fort and then connected to the new section of town. Since it's Sunday we walked the narrow
streets, visited a couple of churches and went to a museum with an old olive oil press. It is actually underground,
very cool and a little claustrophobic. Glenn, it appears, has always wondered how they got olive oil. We have
answered that "pressing" question. Let them sit for a month to get acidic and then put them under a gigantic
wheel pulled by blindfolded donkeys on four hours shifts.The wheel goes around and around pressing them. It
mashed it up to a juice with the oil floating to the top. The oil was strained off and put into barrels. Thirty
ships a day left the harbor with olive oil to sell around Europe. The oil was a cheap method of lighting lamps.
This was in the early 1700's. By the time we had walked around the old town we counted 8 churches. There is a
strong connection between the maritime life and the church. We went back to the boat in time to get ready for quite
a little storm coming in. The winds got up to 30 Kts and nature really made a beautiful display for us. All the
art and architecture we see and I really don't think you can beat nature.
6/22 Today we went to the new section
of town, found Vodaphone and got our internet back up and went to the grocery store. We bought some Magnum dark chocolate,
chocolate covered snack ice cream bars in the grocery store, crossed the street and sat in a park and ate them for lunch.
Yum. We never have ice cream on the boat as we can't get to the freezer from the grocery store in time. Off tomorrow
to head up the east coast of Italy.
6/23-25 We have traveled along the bottom of the boot and are presently
in Brindisi. Friday we plan on crossing to Croatia. We have decided to go to Venice from the top of Croatia by
boat (as much as we ever make travel decisions). We will be out of contact for a few days as it is an overnight trip
plus we then have to find a vodaphone in Croatia for our phone and internet.
